Sumach — The Red Spice on Döner Onion Salad
Sumach is the tart, fruity red spice made from ground berries of Rhus coriaria. In döner, it seasons the onion salad and often replaces lemon.
Sumach is a tart, fruity spice made from dried and finely ground berries of Rhus coriaria, a shrub native to the eastern Mediterranean region. Characteristic are its deep red to dark purple color and an astringent citrus note, traditionally used in Levantine and Turkish cuisine as an acidifying agent in place of lemon.
In the döner and Shawarma world, most guests encounter Sumach without knowing it: it is the red powder on the thinly sliced onions that go into the bread together with parsley.
Origin of the Name
The term traces back to the Arabic summāq, which in turn derives from the Aramaic simmūkā and simply means "red." The name thus describes not a botanical property, but the striking color of the spice powder. In Turkish the spice is called sumak, in English sumac — all three spellings refer to the same plant.
Flavor and Culinary Use
Sumach delivers a mild, fruity acidity with hints of dried berries and lemon zest. Unlike vinegar or lemon juice, it brings this acidity in dry form, making it ideal for salads, marinades, and dry spice blends. In Lebanese, Syrian, and Palestinian cuisine, Sumach seasons the bread salad Fattoush, hummus, grilled meat and fish. In Turkish cuisine it is primarily used as an accompaniment to Kebap dishes.
Sumach in Döner and Shawarma
The typical application in the döner world is the onion salad: raw onions are cut into thin half-rings, mixed with chopped flat parsley and a generous pinch of Sumach. The acidity of the spice takes the bite out of the raw onion and tints the mixture slightly reddish. In Arabic Shawarma this side dish is practically mandatory; in classic Berlin döner it appears less frequently — there a simpler salad mix usually dominates.
Component of Za'atar
Sumach is, alongside thyme and roasted sesame, one of the three core components of the spice blend Za'atar, which is part of everyday cuisine in Palestine, Lebanon, Jordan, and Syria. Za'atar is stirred into a paste with olive oil and spread on Fladenbrot or served as a dip. The Sumach content provides the tart depth without which the blend would taste flat.
Purchasing in Germany
Sumach is available in every Turkish, Arabic, and Persian grocery store, usually in 100 to 250-gram bags. High-quality goods often come from Iran or southeastern Turkey and are recognizable by a rich, dark red to purple color. Powder that is distinctly grayish or brownish indicates age or adulteration with salt. Industrially processed versions sometimes contain salt as a preservative — checking the ingredient list is worthwhile.
Distinction from Ornamental Sumach
Botanically, culinary Sumach belongs to the genus Rhus, which also includes the North American staghorn sumac (Rhus typhina), which grows in many German gardens and parks. Its berries are not toxic, but taste considerably less interesting. Clearly separate is poison sumac (Toxicodendron species), which has nothing to do with the kitchen spice. Anyone buying Sumach in a supermarket reliably gets the edible species Rhus coriaria.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does Sumach taste like?
Sumach tastes distinctly tart, slightly fruity, and with a fine citrus note. The flavor is reminiscent of lemon zest, but milder and less sharp, with a slight astringency. This acidity is precisely what makes Sumach the natural substitute for lemon juice in many Levantine dishes.
What is Sumach used for in döner?
Classically, Sumach is sprinkled over paper-thin sliced onions, often together with chopped parsley. The acidity of the spice softens the bite of the raw onion and gives the topping a fruity-red note. This mixture is found in both Turkish döner and Arabic Shawarma.
Is Sumach poisonous?
Culinary Sumach (Rhus coriaria) is non-toxic and has been used in eastern Mediterranean cuisine for centuries. Confusion can arise with the North American staghorn sumac (Rhus typhina), which grows as an ornamental plant in parks, and with highly toxic poison sumac (Toxicodendron). Spice from a Turkish or Arabic supermarket is safe.
Where can I buy Sumach in Germany?
Sumach is available in every Turkish, Arabic, or Persian supermarket, usually considerably cheaper than in German organic stores. Goods from Iran or southeastern Turkey are recommended, as the most aromatic varieties are traditionally grown there. Look for a deep red to purple color — grayish-brown powder is old or adulterated.
What is the difference between Sumach and Za'atar?
Sumach is a single spice, Za'atar is a blend. In Za'atar, Sumach is one of the main components alongside thyme, roasted sesame, and salt. Sumach alone provides only the tart component; Za'atar additionally brings herbal and nutty flavors.